“It’s like a Pat Conroy novel come to life. Your blood pressure goes down the moment you arrive.”
Imagine stepping off a ferry boat and into another era — one where the air smells like salt and pine, the only sounds are birds calling and cicadas buzzing, and the pace of life instantly slows. Dewees Island, South Carolina, feels like a place frozen in time. There are no stores, no streetlights, and no cars — just six miles of untouched beach, winding trails through maritime forest, and neighbors who wave as they pass by in golf carts. It’s a place where kids roam barefoot, dolphins often escort the ferry, and the night sky is so dark you can see the Milky Way.
This week on Mixtape Travels, I spoke with Alicia Reilly—a full-time resident and turtle team volunteer—about what sets Dewees apart and makes it “magically wild.”
🎧 Click on the above link to listen to the interview or listen on “Mixtape Travels” on Apple Podcasts or Spotify.
Below are highlights from our conversation on what truly makes this barrier island a hidden gem.
Life on the Edge of the Wild
Dewees is the first line of defense when hurricanes roll toward Charleston. “We’re the storm’s first stop before it hits downtown,” Alicia told me. The island has just 75 homes now and will never have more than 150, thanks to a conservation easement that protects six miles of beaches, dunes, and maritime forest.
Here, nature takes center stage. Step onto sand with no buildings in sight—just the Atlantic, wild landscapes, and the authentic simplicity at the heart of Dewees.
Your Journey Begins on the Ferry
“There’s always this deep exhale when we step on the boat. By the time we reach the dock, it feels like we’ve left the world behind.”
Part of Dewees’s magic is that your journey begins with adventure. Arriving means parking at the marina on the Isle of Palms, loading bags into carts as gulls wheel overhead, and boarding one of two ferries—a cozy 14-passenger boat or a breezy two-level vessel. The 15-minute crossing typically brings playful dolphins swimming alongside, as salt air and anticipation mingle.
“When my boys were little, I’d promise them a dollar for every dolphin they saw on the early ferry to school,” Alicia laughed. “It kept them quiet long enough for me to have my coffee.”
A Front-Row Seat to Nature
On Dewees, unspoiled nature defines daily life. Each season reveals new wonders—bald eagles, baby owls, coyotes, and turtles—all part of the island’s uniquely vibrant environment.
Even the plants get in on the act — wild blackberries ripen in summer, just begging to be turned into jam or pie. Alicia described it perfectly:
“You’re eating from the land and living in it. There’s always something being born, something waking up, something changing.”
Neighbors Who Feel Like Family
Life on Dewees attracts people who want to be here — conservationists, birders, dreamers who are happy to trade coffee shops for coffee at a neighbor’s kitchen table. “My neighbor makes fish and grits every morning with whatever was caught the day before,” Alicia shared.
Community is at the heart of island life. Friday happy hours, a monthly book club, and weekly ladies’ coffee mean there’s always someone to talk to — or commiserate with about the tides, the weather, or the best time to catch shrimp.
Seasons to Savor
When I asked Alicia her favorite season, she couldn’t pick just one:
Summer brings daily opportunities for swimming in warm ocean water, observing loggerhead turtles nesting at night, and enjoying long days that fade into clear, starlit evenings, perfect for beach strolls.
Fall, especially in October, is known for the sweetgrass turning brilliant gold across the island. The days remain sunny and mild, making it ideal for birdwatching, biking, and outdoor gatherings as the weather cools.
Winter offers tranquil beach walks, often with brisk breezes and few fellow visitors. This is the quietest season on the island, perfect for those seeking solitude, peaceful sunrises, and views of migratory birds.
Spring bursts with life as baby alligators appear near the ponds, coyotes cross the dunes, and a vibrant chorus of frogs and birds fills the air. Wildflowers bloom, adding fresh color to trails and marshes.
📚 A Story Worth Sharing
The island’s way of life has even inspired a bestselling book series. Acclaimed author Mary Alice Monroe based her children’s trilogy The Islanders on the real-life adventures of Alicia’s two sons, who grew up exploring Dewees by bike, ferry, and barefoot wanderings. Their childhood — filled with turtle hatchings, marsh explorations, and tight-knit community life — became the heart of the stories. How cool is that?
Through these stories, readers everywhere experience Dewees’s wild beauty, meaningful simplicity, and tight-knit community—the very heart of its secret charm.
Planning Your Trip
Thinking about visiting Dewees Island? Here’s what you need to know:
📍 How to Get There
Fly into Charleston International Airport, rent a car, and drive about 40 minutes to the Dewees Island Marina on the Isle of Palms.
Check in at the ferry dock, load your luggage into carts, and board the ferry.
🚤 The Ferry
Ferries run hourly and take about 15 minutes.
Watch for dolphins — it’s almost guaranteed.
The larger two-level ferry is a favorite for first-timers, but the smaller one is faster.
🏡 Where to Stay
There’s a small number of short-term rentals available through the Dewees Island website.
Book early — availability is very limited.
🎒 What to Pack
Comfortable walking shoes and a bike if you can bring one — there are no cars on the island.
Groceries (or arrange for delivery in advance).
Binoculars for birdwatching and a camera for turtle season.
A jacket, even in warmer months — ferry rides can get breezy.
✨The Magic of Dewees Island
Talking with Alicia reminded me that places like Dewees Island are rare — not just because of their beauty, but because of the way they make you feel. This is a community that listens to the rhythms of the tide, where life moves at a human pace, and where nature isn’t just admired, it’s lived alongside. It’s a glimpse of how things once were, and how they still can be if we choose to slow down and pay attention.
Meet Alicia Reilly
Alicia Reilly lives full-time on Dewees Island, a car-free barrier island just north of Charleston, South Carolina. After years of city life, she was drawn to Dewees for its wild beauty, quiet pace, and strong sense of community. Today, she balances work, raising her two boys, and life surrounded by nature — from sunrise ferry rides to beach walks and turtle season mornings. Alicia loves sharing the magic of this hidden island and what it means to live simply, sustainably, and deeply connected to the tides, wildlife, and neighbors who make Dewees so special.
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