Q&A GUEST POST with Liz Coffey: South Kerry/Iveragh, Ireland 🇮🇪
Discover Ireland's Hidden Gem in South Kerry: The Iveragh Peninsula
Meet Liz Coffey
Liz has been a world traveler from the word GO, willing or no. Born on the bayou in southeast Texas, Liz was only 18 months old when her oil-refinery-working dad moved the family to Ras Tanura, in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia. For 8.5 years, the family made their home in the Middle East, where Liz and her sister Laura thought it was totally normal to come home from swimming in the Persian Gulf, and get out the turpentine to scrub off all the crude oil that just floated through the warm water and adhered itself tenaciously to their skin. What? You didn’t do that? They enjoyed expat life in a mostly American and European community, attending American schools, and traveling extensively from Bangkok to Norway, Kenya to India, and Turkey to England, very little of which Liz actually remembers. But what she does remember, she absolutely treasures.
After moving home to America and settling in California, Liz’s dad decided it was time for his little girls to get to know their homeland. Every summer from 1986 to 1995, they partook in the tradition of the Great American Road Trip, driving to America’s beautiful national parks, our great cities, too many Civil- and Revolutionary War battlefields (snore), and every single Hysterical (family slang for Historical) Marker in between.
As an adult right out of college, Liz moved to London and lived for a time (the time of her life!) working in sundry jobs from posh Chelsea interior design studios, to swank City law firms, to an ill-fated stint in a nursery school in Ladbroke Grove. Soon after returning to California, Liz met and married an off-the-boat Irishman, and her life has continued its international tilt ever since. After settling in Belmont, just south of San Francisco, and having two sons, Liz and her husband moved for his job to Heidelberg, Germany, for 2.5 years. Watching their sons settle into and experience life in a different country was a constant joy–and a struggle at times! But throughout her marriage and their family travels, Liz has found a second home in her husband’s native country, Ireland. For weeks every summer, and every other Christmas, the family travels to Dublin, and to Ballinskelligs, on the stunning Iveragh Peninsula in South County Kerry. Every single visit feels like coming home.
Where is your favorite place in the world to travel to?
The saying goes that you are either a beach person or a mountain person. Liz is a mountain person. She doesn’t want to climb them, mind you, but nothing makes her happier than sipping a chilled Grüner Veltliner, and staring at the Alps. Favorite places include Lermoos in the Tirol, Interlaken, Garmisch Parten-Kirken, and the village below Neuschwanstein. Summer 2025 will find Liz sipping something chilled in Grindelwald, Switzerland, and staring at the Eiger, where her poor misguided husband will be performing some feat of athleticism involving running. On an Alp. Shrug.
What are your top travel hacks or tips?
Liz swears she doesn't have any. She’s a chronic and incurable overpacker who has resigned herself to just shrugging when everyone gets mad at her for it.
Q&A GUEST POST with Liz Coffey: South Kerry/Iveragh, Ireland 🇮🇪
Q: Why should people plan a trip to South Kerry/Iveragh in Ireland? Can you briefly describe this region?
A: I firmly believe that the Iveragh Peninsula area of South Kerry is every bit as beautiful, authentic, and picturesque as its far more well-known, and far more crowded northern neighbor, Dingle. Iveragh offers steep, craggy cliffs; colorful fishing villages; world-renowned artist colonies; stunningly blue bays; fine Irish crafts; world-class golf; hundreds of hikes, walks, and hill walks along The Kerry Way and the Wild Atlantic Way; swanky 5-star resorts; Irish cultural, musical, and historical experiences; and views, and views, and views.
Q: What's the best time of year to visit?
A: The joke’s on you because there is no “good” time of year to visit Ireland, but as I learned from the Germans during my time in Heidelberg: There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing. So strap on the Gortex, jam your feet into some wellies, and get on with it. I have experienced frigid Christmases with treacherous ice in South Kerry, snow in Dublin, the rare drought, complete with brown Californian-looking grass, and wet, foggy summers. It doesn’t matter. You just have to plan your trip, prepare for the worst, force yourself to go out despite the weather, and take advantage of every single second of precious sunshine. That said, *some people* say September is the best time of year, weather-wise. It is also the time of year that you can eat blackberries right off the wild-growing bushes on the side of every road in South Kerry, so there’s that.
Q: How many days should you plan to spend in South Kerry/Iveragh to truly experience it?
A: I am admittedly completely biased, so I recommend a full week. A mistake many American travelers make in the West of Ireland is thinking that, because something is 50 miles away, it will be a quick, easy one-hour drive. Roads in Ireland, especially in the West, are generally one-and-a-half-lane rollercoaster bog roads that will make you squeeze your eyes closed while you squeeze your car between a hurtling bus and a gorse-thorn- and possibly sheep-covered ditch (earthen wall) by the skin of your teeth. Don’t underestimate travel time. For example, the 78-km/49-mile drive from Killarney to Ballinskelligs takes no less than 90 minutes.
Q: Tell me a bit about the people of South Kerry/Iveragh.
A: Again, I admit to major biases here, as my husband’s family has become my own. I can tell you that the people here are hard-working, tenacious, steeped in their literature and history, and full of wonderful stories of their home county. They are, to a human, hard core Team Kerry Gaelic Football fanatics, and you can’t pass more than five houses without seeing a Kerry flag flying from at least one of them. More on Gaelic Football later.
Q: What should you not forget to pack when visiting South Kerry/Iveragh?
A: Well, considering that there are regularly four seasons in any given day, I would recommend everything from a swimsuit, a sunhat, and flip flops, to athletic gear and hiking boots, to jeans and a wool or cashmere cardie, AND wellies and a light rain jacket shell. The name of the game is layering, and the willingness to peel off and bundle up, peel off, bundle up, rinse and repeat.
Q: What is the best airport to fly in/out? Any specific airport tips upon arrival?
A: Kerry Airport is right outside of Killarney and is serviced by smaller airlines like Ryanair. If you plan to fly into Dublin, and then take a short hop to Kerry Airport, you need to follow the rules of the Dublin - Kerry airline. For example, Ryanair is infamous for its stringent adherence to quite Spartan baggage rules. But, hey, if I can do it, so can you. Do your research and pack accordingly.
Another option is to fly into Cork Airport, and drive the 1.5-2.5 hours to your South Kerry destination.
Q: When you arrive, do you need to rent a car? Can you get around via taxi? How's public transportation?
A: Your two main transportation options are to rent your own car and drive around, OR, make Killarney your homebase and rely on local tour buses and taxis. Of the two, I’d highly recommend renting a car, and even more highly recommend buying allll the insurance. Between driving on the wrong side of the road, giant buses careening towards you, and the thorn bushes on the side of the roads scraping the paint off the side of your car, you want to make it so that, if you bring that car back in 3 cubic feet of twisted metal and broken glass, you won’t owe them a euro.
Q: What are the main cities/towns in the South Kerry/Iveragh region? Which ones are not to be missed?
A: Killarney and Kenmare are really the only two main towns of note. The rest of the notable places, Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Portmagee, Waterville, Caherdaniel, and Sneem, are really small villages. Each of these places is charming in its own right. Each of them has stunning views of the Atlantic or the bays, and each has a little pub or restaurant worth stopping at.
Q: Where do you recommend staying in South Kerry/Iveragh? Any specific hotels? Or best to rent a place through a local agency or site like Airbnb? Any really unique places to stay?
A: Rental vacation homes abound throughout South Kerry, as do proper B&Bs. There are few hotels out in the country, and the really nice ones are in and around Killarney and Kenmare. Of Condé Nast’s list of the top 25 hotels in Europe, a gobsmacking EIGHT of them are in Ireland: two are in Killarney and one is in Kenmare. The Europe Hotel and The Dunloe are the top hotels listed in Condé Nast in Killarney, but also notable are Aghadoe Heights Hotel, The Killarney Park Hotel, and the Killarney Plaza Hotel & Spa. In Kenmare, Condé Nast listed the Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare. Also worth a look in Kenmare are Parknasilla Resort, and The Park Hotel Kenmare. Because I always stay with family, I have only stayed at one of these, The Parknasilla Resort. We went for my mother- and father-in-law’s 50th wedding anniversary, and absolutely loved our stay. The food in the restaurant was lovely, the views are spectacular, the hotel is stately, and there is plenty to do for families with kids.
Q: What are some not-to-miss sites in South Kerry/Iveragh?
A: The single most important site, both by just its grandeur and its historical significance, is Skellig Michael. For 500 years, between about 600 CE and 1100 CE, monks built and lived in a monastery of stone beehive huts 8 miles out on this forbidding, windy, craggy island, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They were eventually forced ashore due to marauding Vikings (ever wonder why Ireland has so many redheads?), and then built Ballinskelligs (meaning ‘town of the Skelligs’) Abbey in the 12th century CE. Skellig Michael served as Luke Skywalker’s hermitage in the most recent Star Wars movies, episodes 7, 8, and 9.
Do your research and find one of the many Skellig Michael-bound boats that leave from Portmagee or Ballinskelligs Pier, and hope for a calm day at sea. I have been out to Skellig Michael twice, once on a lovely, calm blue-sky day, and once on a choppy, white-capped sea that left me feeling a bit green about the gills. Both times we got to see dolphins swimming and jumping along with the boat, though! It is important to note that there are no public toilets on the Skelligs, so you might want to find one of the boats that has a bathroom. Also very important to note is that the monastery is 700 wet stone steps above the sea, and only people fit enough to make this climb wearing sturdy shoes with very good grippy soles should attempt a visit. Also watch out for brazen, thieving seagulls. They’ll take the sandwich right out of your hand.
There are actually three Skelligs, Skellig Michael, the Little Skellig, and the Lemon Rock. Skellig Michael is described above. The Little Skellig, equally craggy and windblown as Skellig Michael, stands out because it is bright white against the dark sea and blue (or gray) sky. The white color comes from centuries of Gannet poop, and from the white birds themselves, who roost in a crowded tenement of a bird refuge. The island is stunning, and many of the boats out to Skellig Michael will take a quick lap around it for you to see all the birds. Fun fact: Gannets are as large as turkeys, and their beaks have no nostrils, so that they can dive bomb from 20-50’ up to snatch unsuspecting fish underwater. The Lemon Rock is tiny and much closer to land, and is very boring compared to its much more famous big brothers.
Scattered throughout South Kerry, and throughout Ireland as a whole are ancient dolmen tombs, standing stones, ring forts, and the newer-but-still-super-old-to-Americans ruins of watchtowers and castles. There is a ring fort and a ruined castle “Over the Water” in Cahersiveen (yes, Over the Water is the actual mailing address, isn’t that charming?). My kids, husband and I love to go tromping around and exploring all these ancient sites with my father-in-law. All you have to do to find some ancient ruins near you is ask around at the pub, restaurant, hotel or B&B. The locals will love to tell you all about them.
Up a steep hill from the tiny fishing village of Portmagee are The Kerry Cliffs, said to rival the stunning, sheer Cliffs of Moher in Clare. For a small fee, you can park in the farmer’s field, and hike up and out to see a fine view of The Skelligs and gape at the belly-clenching, precipitous drop to the sea.
Ballaghisheen (Anglicized from the Irish Bealach (way, or pass in a mountain range) Óisín (Irish male name pronounced UH-sheen, meaning “little deer”) is a wonderful, sparsely populated pass from Waterville on the coast to Killarney inland. It is bleak, stark, and stunningly beautiful in its solitude. If you have the extra time, I highly recommend an afternoon drive through.
Closer to Killarney are The Gap of Dunloe, the craggy McGillicuddy Reeks mountain range, and lakes of Killarney National Park. A hiker’s paradise, the beauty of the countryside is unforgettable. Dozens and dozens of hiking trails take you up hills and mountains, to hidden waterfalls, and surprise you with breathtaking views around every bend.
Q: What are some must-do activities (from outdoor sports to other unique activities or tours) while in South Kerry/Iveragh?
A: Kenmare Bay has much to offer the intrepid, as it is a favorite loitering and breeding ground for harbour seals. Seafari is a company that provides guided boat tours of the wildlife on display in Kenmare Bay. We did this when our children were little, and still chuckle about how the captain of the boat rolled up almost 30 minutes late, looking like he’d slept off a wild night. Eh. Life is short and we didn’t begrudge him his pints or his hangover.
Q: Is South Kerry/Iveragh family-friendly? What are some must-do activities or places to visit with kids?
A: Yes, there are playgrounds scattered around, but there is not any kid-focused museum like you’d find in a city. If your kids like walking (lol), they’ll love Iveragh. If they love gorgeous, sandy beaches with dubiously chilly water, they’ll love Iveragh. Kids are welcome in any pub, and most restaurants, except maybe the super-fanciest.
Some of our best memories, other than tromping around ruined castles and ring forts, that is, are going over the Portmagee Bridge, to Valentia (pronounced Vah-LENch-ah) Island. (www.valentiaisland.ie/things-to-do/) Another point of access is a car ferry from Renard, an area just off the road from Cahersiveen to Waterville. You can walk out to the Brayhead watchtower on the southwest point of the island for a jaw-dropping view of The Skelligs; have a lovely pub lunch in Knightstown; get homemade ice cream at Valentia Island Farmhouse Dairy in view of the generous cows it came from; visit Valentia Lighthouse, a disused slate quarry, an old Transatlantic Cable Station, or take an easy walk down to view 365 million years old fossilized tetrapod footprints. You’ll need a solid day to accomplish all these must-see stops on Valentia, and a good place to start is the Valentia Island Heritage Center.
Q: Where can you find the best hikes in the region? Any favorite hikes you recommend?
A: The best hikes will be found on the following websites: www.kerryway.com and www.wildatlaticway.com
One of my favorite hikes is The Walk of the Planets in Caherdaniel. It’s a 3.5km easy walk that is a scaled representation of the solar system, starting at the sun. It’s fun to do this walk and then go into The Blind Piper Pub for a pint, or a pint and lunch.
Q: What's the performing arts & arts scene like in South Kerry/Iveragh? Any must-see performances and/or museums?
A: Your best bet is to ask around where you’re staying to find live music at local pubs. It will definitely be there! The arts scene in South Kerry is huge. There are artist’s villages, like the one in the old famine village of Killreelig, where artists apply for and are granted funds to live for a time, and create. Galleries in the larger towns like Kenmare and Killarney will likely have some of these works.
There are arts and crafts stores in every town, with both locally made items, and items from all over Ireland. But beware. I once purchased a darling hat at one of these and found that it was made in like Eastern Europe or some such nonsense. Check labels to know where your item was made. One of my favorite things to buy is a sheepskin pelt–they make great decor or chair-padding, are easily squished into luggage and don’t weigh much and, in my humble opinion, go with every design style.
Q: Any sporting games not to miss in the region?
A: Gaelic Football is a fast-paced and nail-biting game that is a combination of soccer, rugby, basketball, and … boxing. It’s one of four Gaelic Games originating in Ireland, and, along with Hurling (the same basic rules as Gaelic Football, but with a small ball called a schlitter, thrown around and caught with giant wooden spoons called hurleys), are the most popular sports in Ireland, and they are SO MUCH FUN to watch. Every town or area has teams of multiple age groups, and every county has their own teams, which compete nationally. If you want to get to know the people of Kerry, go to a Gaelic Football match. The rules are easy to understand, the pace is staggering, and you are guaranteed to enjoy hearing the locals cheering, “GWAN BAI!” which can be translated directly to “GO ON BOY!”
Q: Where can you find the best shopping in South Kerry/Iveragh? Best area with local boutiques and artisan goods? Any specific stores to visit?
A: As noted, every little town has one or more arts and crafts stores, but Killarney and Kenmare will be the only places worth a shopping trip. Additionally, there are a few places that are worth a visit. Fermoyle Pottery is stunning in its rustic simplicity and perfect imperfection (www.fermoylepottery.ie/). There is also Hillgrove Porcelain, where an artisan makes gorgeous porcelain just outside Cahersiveen (www.hillgroveporcelain.com/).
For woven goods, I highly recommend Mucros Weavers (www.mucrosweavers.ie/), and Kerry Woollen Mills (www.kerrywoollenmills.ie/), both located just outside Killarney.
Q: Let's talk food! What are some must-eat dishes? Favorite restaurants? Hidden gems?
A: My favorite dishes (other than everything my mother-in-law makes) to order at any good restaurant in Iveragh are The Seafood Platter, Seafood Chowder, and Fish & Chips (of course!). Some of my favorite restaurants are:
Jam (casual coffee, pastries, and food) - Killarney
Quinlan & Cooke’s (pub restaurant) - Cahersiveen
Camo’s (casual restaurant) - Cahersiveen
O’Neill’s The Point (restaurant) - Renard Point/Cahersiveen *reservations recommended
The Fisherman’s Bar (down home pub!) - Portmagee
Driftwood Cafe (nice restaurant) - The Glen (located between Portmagee & Ballinskelligs with a stunning view of the Skelligs) *reservations recommended
The Butler Arms (nice hotel restaurant) - Waterville
1889 Restaurant & Bar at Waterville Golf Links (golf course restaurant) - Waterville
The Smuggler’s Inn (casual restaurant) - Waterville
The Blind Piper (pub restaurant) - Caherdaniel
Pygmalion Restaurant at Parknasilla Resort (fine dining) - Kenmare *reservations recommended
Landline Restaurant at Park Hotel Kenmare (fine dining) - Kenmare *reservations recommended
There are a *ton* more restaurants in Killarney and Kenmare, and all over South Kerry, that I have missed, because I am not often in those towns for meals out, but ask around, trust the fancy hotel restaurants and bars, and explore! Let me and Shannon know what you find other than my trusted favorites above.
Q: Tell me what folks love to drink in South Kerry/Iveragh. What are some must-visit pubs? Pubs with best live music?
A: I’m not really in tune with the pub scene in South Kerry, as we are usually there with our children to be with family in rural Ballinskelligs, but that doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy my favorite beer (Killarney Blonde) occasionally, and my husband is, as ever, a devotee of the finest pulled pints of Guinness in Ireland, known to be in the Southwest. All of the above-listed restaurants and hotels are great places to have a drink. To these I will add several pubs we also like for a pint (but don’t necessarily have food there, or food isn’t offered):
Mike Murt’s - Cahersiveen
The Bridge Bar - Portmagee
Cable O’Leary’s - Ballinskelligs
Tig Rosie’s - Dungagen
The Lobster Bar - Waterville
Again, these are all in and around the area where my family lives, Ballinskelligs, so I don’t have recommendations for the larger towns like Kenmare, or Killarney.
Q: Anything you'd like to add about visiting South Kerry/Iveragh?
A: One last thing. Acknowledging that there are about a million special little places I have missed, I just want to add that Muckross House (www.muckross-house.ie/), outside Killarney, is a fine old manor house leftover from the centuries the British (the damn Brits!) ruled over Ireland. For those from the San Francisco Bay Area, you may recognize Muckross House from the beautiful murals on the walls of Filoli, just north of Woodside and south of Highway 92. The two houses have an interesting connection going back to the early 1900s. Both are worth a visit. In addition to the stunning house, the gardens are spectacular, and there are lovely walks to be had along the lakes, and views of the McGillicuddy Reeks mountain range.
Thank you Liz for sharing your fabulous recommendations on visiting this beautiful region of Ireland!
Great to see Liz's recomendations. I wanna gooooooooo!
Well done Liz! I wanna go back now!!