If you’ve ever dreamed of sipping hot mulled wine in a cobblestone square while twinkle lights dance above your head and the smell of roasted chestnuts fills the air… this episode is for you.
This week on Mixtape Travels, I’m joined by travel writer Maggie Downs, who shares how one trip to the European Christmas markets transformed her from a self-proclaimed Grinch into a full-blown holiday romantic. She takes us through the fairy-tale towns of Germany, Switzerland, and Austria, where the season feels more about connection and joy than shopping lists and office parties.
For Maggie, the magic of the Christmas Markets went far deeper than twinkle lights. Her first market stop was Heidelberg, Germany —a special place since her late mother was from Germany and absolutely adored Christmas. Being there again, surrounded by warmth and light, helped her reconnect with that joy in a way that felt both nostalgic and healing.
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A Different Kind of Holiday Spirit
“It’s not about consumerism or chaos. It’s about people coming together — and that’s what Christmas should feel like.”
Maggie describes how the markets are woven into daily life — locals meet friends for a glass of wine, grab dinner from food stalls, and listen to live choirs under glowing lights. It’s festive, but not forced. Think community gathering meets Hallmark movie, minus the cheesiness.
Each city has its own twist:
Cities like Vienna host multiple markets — up to 20 different ones, each with its own personality.
Popular themed markets include:
Art Advent Market (Vienna): Local artisans and handmade crafts.
Esslingen, Germany: A medieval-themed market with axe throwing and costumed characters.
LGBTQ- and family-friendly markets in various cities.
Distinctive traditions: In Jenkinbock, Germany, the town hall becomes the world’s largest advent calendar.
And in Innsbruck, Austria, Maggie stumbled onto a Krampus parade — part folklore, part fever dream.
🌍 Where and When to Go
Main destinations: Germany, France, Switzerland, Austria, Czech Republic, and Hungary. Check out this very detailed Christmas Markets Map of 1,800 European Christmas Markets (!!) that was created by Jeremy Rike and posted in the Magical Christmas Markets of Europe Facebook Group.
Timing: Most markets open in mid-November and run through Christmas Eve, generally 9–11 a.m. to 8–10 p.m. Some larger markets continue to run the week after Christmas.
Planning tip: Start early in the day to shop and explore, then return at night for lights, music, and that storybook glow.
Entry: Free to attend; some activities like ice skating have small fees.
🍷What to Eat & Drink
If you love winter comfort food, visiting the Christmas Markets is a carb lover’s paradise. Maggie swears by the Hungarian flatbreads (lángos), potato pancakes with applesauce, Swiss raclette, and German dumplings smothered in sauerkraut and bacon. For dessert? Chimney cakes filled with Nutella.
The drink of choice is Glühwein (hot spiced wine), but there’s also Kinderpunsch, a non-alcoholic punch that’s surprisingly sophisticated. Each market even has its own collectible mug, so you can sip your way through Europe and come home with a suitcase full of adorable souvenirs.
Savory favorites:
Roasted nuts and chestnuts
Potato pancakes (kartoffelpuffer) with applesauce
Hungarian flatbreads (langos)
Raclette, fondue, crepes, and dumplings
Sweet treats: Chimney cakes filled with whipped cream or Nutella.
Drinks:
Glühwein (hot mulled wine)
Kinderpunsch (non-alcoholic spiced punch)
Hot cocoa, cider, and more.
💎 Shopping Finds
Mix of local artisans and mass-produced (but locally made) goods.
Expect ornaments, candles, jewelry, textiles, wooden toys, and Christmas décor.
Maggie admits she brought home an entire duffel bag of ornaments and mugs.
Price point: Surprisingly affordable. Most vendors accept credit cards, though cash helps at smaller stalls.
🎶 Entertainment and Atmosphere
Markets often feature choirs, local musicians, and dance groups, especially at night.
Many offer ice skating, carousels, and kid-friendly attractions.
Innsbruck, Austria stands out for its Krampus parades — locals dressed as the mythical creature who punishes naughty children.
🎒 Tips for Planning Your Own Market Trip
If you’re tempted to plan a holiday trip abroad, Maggie shared a few tips worth noting:
Timing: Most markets run from mid-November to Christmas Eve.
Transportation: Skip the rental car and travel by train. Frankfurt’s airport connects directly to the rail line, making it the perfect starting point. Also, most cities offer special Christmas market passes for trains and local transit.
Packing: Bundle up — think waterproof parka, warm boots, gloves, and a foldable duffel for all the mugs and ornaments you’ll “accidentally” buy.
Budget: Entry is free, food is affordable, and most vendors take credit cards.
Meet Maggie Downs
Maggie Downs is the author of the memoir Braver Than You Think: Around the World on the Trip of My (Mother’s) Lifetime (Counterpoint Press), an instant Amazon bestseller and a finalist for the Ohioana Book Award. Excerpts have been anthologized in Best Women’s Travel Writing and Lonely Planet’s True Stories From the World’s Best Writers. She is also the author of 50 Things to Do Before You’re Five, a guide to gentle family adventures.
As a journalist, Maggie specializes in meaningful travel, outdoor adventure, and wellness. Her work has appeared in The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, The Washington Post, Travel + Leisure, McSweeney’s, and many other publications. In her newspaper career, she has received three Best of Gannett awards and was named Best Reporter in Ohio by the Associated Press.
Maggie lives in the California desert with her husband, their son, a rescue dog named Popcorn and a cat, Coleslaw. She is passionate about soup dumplings and coffee. (But not together.) She currently writes a travel newsletter on Substack called Be Back By Dinner. You can also follow Maggie on Instagram at MaggieInk.
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