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Traveling Solo to Scotland with Jen Belcher
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Traveling Solo to Scotland with Jen Belcher

A love story starring castles, standing stones, sticky toffee pudding—and one unforgettable busker moment 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿
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Jen Belcher in Scotland. Photo credit: Alysa Tarrant from Wildling Weddings

Scotland destroyed me—in the best way.”

That’s how Jen, a three-time solo traveler to Scotland (in just one year!), described her love affair with the country. And after hearing her story, it’s easy to understand why.

Inspired in part by Outlander—yes, the time-traveling, kilt-filled drama that’s lured many a traveler north—Jen booked her first solo trip to Scotland in March 2024. She was nervous (first big trip since the pandemic), excited (cue Edinburgh castle fantasies), and totally unprepared for how emotionally attached she’d become.

Whether you’re dreaming of misty moors and moody cliffs or just looking for your next great escape, here are the highlights from Jen’s incredible journeys—and her tips for navigating Scotland solo.

🎧 Click on the above link to listen to the interview or listen on “Mixtape Travels” on Apple Podcasts or Spotify.

Urquhart Castle

Highlights from our conversation include:

🗺️ Her Three Solo Trips, at a Glance

Trip 1: Edinburgh + The Highlands
• Stayed at the Bonham Hotel, a charming Scottish boutique stay (no cookie-cutter chain vibes here)
• Explored Dean Village, Stockbridge, Princes Street Gardens, and the Royal Mile
• Took a HAGGIS Adventures tour with a Highlander named Willie (yes, really)
• Visited Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns — Outlander fans, this is your moment
• Sipped whisky, cruised Loch Ness, and wandered the storybook town of Beauly

Trip 2: Dublin, Northern Ireland, Glasgow + Local Life in Edinburgh
• Flew into Dublin, did a whirlwind Northern Ireland tour, then returned “home” to Scotland
• Explored Glasgow’s cool, gritty arts scene and loved the West End near the university
• Lived like a local in Edinburgh: stayed in an Apart Hotel, grocery shopped, and chased green spaces
• Found magic in Leith, including dinner on an old ship and panoramic views from the new Port of Leith Distillery

Trip 3: Bruges, York + a Slowed-Down Return to Edinburgh
• Planned day trips to Stirling Castle, North Berwick, and the Kelpies—but cracked her phone in York
• Scrapped side adventures and leaned into familiar comfort: tea at the Signet Library, a comedy show, and yes—a tattoo
• Reconnected with her favorite corners of Edinburgh and watched the sunset from Princes Street Gardens on her last night

💙 Scotland Feels Like Home—Literally

One of Jen’s most powerful realizations came late in her third trip. As she sat on a bench in Princes Street Gardens, a street musician started playing “Take Me Home, Country Roads.”

Cue full-body chills.

“It was like every part of my life converged in one moment. I was sitting in a city that feels like my future, hearing a song that connects me to my past.”

Turns out, West Virginia—where Jen grew up—and Scotland have more in common than you’d think. Both are mountainous, green, musically rooted, and full of fiercely loyal people. She later discovered that West Virginia was largely settled by Scots-Irish immigrants and even shares ancient geological roots with Scotland.

“It finally made sense why this place felt like home.”

Jen walking up Victoria Street. Photo credit: Alysa Tarrant.

🧳 Jen’s Solo Travel Tips for Scotland

  1. Start Here. Scotland is incredibly safe and welcoming—perfect for first-time solo travelers.

  2. Walk It. Edinburgh is easy to navigate on foot. Just bring waterproof boots.

  3. Book the Photo Shoot. It’s the best money she’s spent on any trip.

  4. Get Social Before You Go. Reset your Instagram and YouTube algorithm to all things Scotland.

  5. Pack Smart. Think layers, a good raincoat, and gloves—even in the Spring.

  6. Don’t Sleep on the Food. Try the sticky toffee pudding. And the veggie haggis.

  7. Lean Into the Magic. Standing stones. Rolling hills. Castles that seem straight out of Outlander. Even if you’re not chasing Jamie Fraser, you’ll feel the pull.

🌍 What’s Next for Jen?

The Isle of Skye, Orkney, Glencoe, and the NC500 are calling her name. She’s dreaming of bookstore-themed women’s tours and longer stretches in the Highlands.

“I knew from the first trip that I was meant to spend more time there. There’s more history for me to write in Scotland.”

🏴 Jen’s Scotland Recs

Places to Stay

Cities + Neighborhoods

  • Edinburgh — especially Dean Village, Stockbridge, Leith

  • Glasgow’s West End — think artsy, gritty, and full of character

  • Inverness — charming Highland river town, great base for tours

  • Beauly — tiny town with major charm

Food + Drink

Tours + Experiences

  • HAGGIS Adventures Highlands Tour — ask for Willie!

  • Culloden Battlefield & Museum — powerful and sobering

  • Clava Cairns — Outlander-esque standing stones

  • Loch Ness Boat Tour

  • Port of Leith Distillery — 8 stories up, with a view

  • Teutcher's Landing, Leith — dinner aboard a docked ship

  • Kelvingrove Art Gallery (Glasgow) — don’t miss the floating face installation

  • Arthur’s Seat Hike — not a walk. A real hike. But worth it.

  • Signet Library Afternoon Tea — pure elegance

Photo Tip

Packing Must-Haves

Meet Jen Belcher

Jen Belcher. Photo credit: Alysa Tarrant.

Jen Belcher is a former teacher turned communications and marketing specialist, freelance writer, and travel enthusiast. After teaching both in the U.S. and abroad, her love for experiences abroad really took root in 2014 when she moved to Rome, Italy to teach at an international school. That two-year adventure sparked her lifelong passion for travel, including many solo endeavors.

After taking a pause from international exploration during the pandemic, she reignited her wanderlust in 2024, which inspired her to get back into the world of travel through writing. This year she launched her Substack, Books on Trains, a space where she blends her two greatest loves: books and travel. Whether she’s sharing travel guides and recommendations or cozy reading recs for long train rides, Jen brings stories to life through books and travel, the perfect companions for adventures on and off the page.

Subscribe to Jen’s Substack here:

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With much gratitude,
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